6.18.2018

How to Join in a New Ball of Yarn - A NEW method!

How to join in a new ball of yarn in crochet and knitting, a new method by April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio

Not too long ago I started joining in new balls of yarn differently than I used to. It developed because of the way that I spin yarn. When I'm plying my handspun yarn, and one ply runs out, I join in the next one just by overlapping the end of the new single with the old one for a good 12 inches or more. Then when I knit or crochet with it I just stitch as usual, and those two ends of yarn get woven in as I work. The only thing that makes this different than usual is that my yarn is slightly more bulky there, but the difference is so slight that it is not noticeable in the finished project.




It occurred to me that I could do the same thing while crocheting and knitting. When I am stitching and one ball of yarn runs out, I can join in the next one just by overlapping the ends of the old and new balls for 8-12 inches and stitching double-stranded for a few stitches. The ends get woven in as you stitch, so you don't have to weave in ends at these spots when you're finished! It is by far the easiest method I have ever seen to do this.

My only question here is probably the same as yours, is this a durable way to join in a new ball of yarn? I think so. I can't imagine a more secure way to weave in ends than to make it follow the exact path of the yarn in your stitches. It does make those few stitches slightly more bulky, but, as you'll see, it's so slight that you don't notice it in the finished project.

Just in case, I have two swatches that I recently made as an experiment. In both swatches, I cut the yarn around the middle of my swatch. I used my new joining method in one swatch, and the standard joining method in the other. Then I continued each swatch to place the join about in the middle. Both swatches are living in my purse right now getting rubbed and tossed around by everything else in there. I will take them out and wash them every now and again to see how they hold up to that. In the future, I'll add to this post with results of how these two swatches are doing.

Now for instructions on this incredibly easy joining method that involves NO weaving in ends!


http://eepurl.com/b-Fl5T


How to join in a new ball of yarn


In my top picture up there I've come to the point where one ball of yarn ended (actually I cut my yarn, but let's pretend here). In this post I'm using the lovely and soft Cascade Yarns 128 Superwash Multis #123 and a size M Brittany crochet hook. Many thanks to both Cascade Yarns and Brittany Needles for their lovely products!

This variegated yarn requires that I make sure my new yarn end is exactly at the same place in the color pattern as my old yarn end. I cut out a small section to make my ends match. If they didn't, my color pattern would get out of whack at the join. Especially if you were making a project where you were intentionally pooling the colors, you'd need to get this right.

How to join in a new ball of yarn in crochet and knitting, a new method by April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio

Once you have any color patterns lined up properly, overlap your old and new yarn ends by 8-12 inches. It's possible that less of an overlap would be secure, but I'm not certain yet, so I suggest a nice long overlap. I tend to make my ends longer than the standard 4 inches even with the standard joining method anyhow, just to be safe.

How to join in a new ball of yarn in crochet and knitting, a new method by April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio

And just continue your stitching, but double-stranded now, making sure to capture the new end as you start this first stitch.

How to join in a new ball of yarn in crochet and knitting, a new method by April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio

And continue stitching double-stranded until your old end runs out, making sure to catch that old end in your stitching as long as possible.

How to join in a new ball of yarn in crochet and knitting, a new method by April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio

In the picture above, the two gray stitches in the middle of that top row are the location of my join. They look just the tiniest bit bulkier, but not much.

How to join in a new ball of yarn in crochet and knitting, a new method by April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio

In the picture above, my join is in the gray splotch around the middle of the swatch. In my opinion, the join is not visible from the RS of the fabric. The two ends stick out just the tiniest bit on the WS of the fabric, but that's typical of the standard joining method as well, so no biggie.






Disclaimer


As I mentioned above, this is still a new idea, and largely untested, for me anyway. Until you feel confident in this method, don't use it in a project that you'll be devastated to have come undone. I'll revisit this post in the future when I've tested it more.

I'd be interested in your feedback. Have you tried this before? Was it successful? Did your ends stay nicely woven in?


Looking for patterns where you can try out this technique? Look here:







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Happy stitching!
April


4.30.2018

Crochet and Knit Headband Patterns - Millie and Lily Headbands

Knit and Crochet headband patterns by April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio

Hi friends! Today marks a special occasion! Today I am publishing pattern numbers 100 and 101 together! These are crochet and knit versions of essentially the same headband!




This design was inspired by the request of a friend. A friend asked me to make a headband for her in exchange for sugar cookies she was making and decorating for me. I love a good swap, don't you?!

So, I am happy to share with you my newest patterns: Millie Headband (the pink, crochet version) and Lily Headband (the blue-ish, knit version).

Crochet headband pattern by April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio

Both headbands are made in Ancient Arts Yarns Superwash dk. The crochet version, Millie, is made in colorway "Kitten Nose Pink" and the knit version, Lily, is made in "Scottish Mist." Each headband takes part of just one skein. In fact, if you make them a little smaller around than I did, you might even be able to make two headbands with one skein of this lovely yarn!

Knit headband pattern by April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio

The knit headband, Lily, uses Size 6 (4 mm) knitting needles. The crochet headband, Millie, uses an H/8 (5 mm) crochet hook. You'll also need a tapestry needle, whichever version you make.

Crochet headband pattern by April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio

The knit headband is about 4 3/4" [12 cm] wide and 18" [45.5 cm] around. The crochet headband is just a touch wider at 5" [12.5 cm] and the same circumference. These 18" [45.5 cm] headbands stretch to fit a range of head sizes, including mine, at 23" [58.5 cm]. As you can see in the photos, Each headband fit me, and my daughters ages 8 to 14. You can make your headband 2" to 6" [5 to 15 cm] smaller around than the head circumference of the recipient, depending on how tightly you'd like it to fit.

Knit headband pattern by April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio

Each headband has a little cable detail on it. The knit headband uses a mock cable, so you won't need a cable needle for this. The crochet headband uses a small, simple cable, so you'll want to know how to make post stitches. See my tutorial if you are unfamiliar with this technique.

Knit headband pattern by April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio

Each of these patterns costs just $3.00 on Ravelry, Etsy, Craftsy, and LoveKnitting/LoveCrochet. You can purchase it on your favorite site. Click the site name to go to the pattern page there. In honor of the release of my 100th (and 101st!) pattern, I'm doing something special on my Facebook page. Head on over there, and you'll find out how to get any one of my paid patterns for just $1.00! And, get entered to win a grab bag of yarn from my stash, including some of my very own handspun yarn!

Crochet headband pattern by April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio



http://eepurl.com/b-Fl5T



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Happy stitching!
April


4.18.2018

Free Crochet Pattern for a Girls Poncho - Roland Poncho

Free crochet pattern for a girls poncho by April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio

New free crochet pattern!

Hi friends! I have a new crochet pattern today! This a sweet girls poncho that I've named "Roland Poncho." This pattern is only available right here on my blog. 

It is made in Universal Yarn Uptown DK, which is 100% Acrylic (aka, easy care) and SO soft! It's a great yarn for kids' projects! See below for shade numbers and amounts.


http://eepurl.com/b-Fl5T



Free crochet pattern for a girls poncho by April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio

In this pattern you start by making two long side panels that fold over the shoulder. Next, you make two center panels. These are sewn together, though you experienced crocheters could easily do something like intarsia to make the panels all in one piece. I didn't make mine that way because I felt it would make the pattern a lot more complicated to write, and understand.

Next you stitch on the edging and the collar. Lastly, you attach the buttons and weave in the ends.

This will make such a fun and simple sweater for your daughters, granddaughters, nieces, and other favorites!

Please click here to find and favorite the project on Ravelry.


Free crochet pattern for a girls poncho by April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio



Designed by April Garwood


Difficulty Level: Easy+

Included Sizes: Children’s sizes 2 [4, 6, 8, 10].

Finished Measurements: 24 ½ [26 ½, 28 ½, 30 ½, 31 ½]” chest circumference; 11 ½ [12 ¾, 13 ½, 15 ½, 17]” length.

Yarn: UniversalYarn Uptown DK (100% Acrylic; 273 yds [249.5 m]; 3.5 oz [100 g]; CYCA weight: 3/light): #104 Bashful (MC), 2 skeins; #101 White (CC), 1 skein.

Crochet Hook: H/8 [5 mm], or size needed to obtain gauge.

Notions: Tapestry needle, four shank buttons about ¾” [2 cm] in diameter.

Gauge: 17 sts x 12 rows = about 4” [10 cm] in Side Panel pattern st.

Poncho
Side Panels (make 2)
With MC, ch 14 [16, 18, 17, 18]
Row 1(WS): Sc in 2nd ch from st and each remaining ch, turn – 13 [15, 17, 16, 17] sts.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st, turn.
Rows 3-4: Ch 2, dc in each st, turn.
Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each st, turn.

Repeat rows 2-5 for solid stitch pattern.

Work in solid stitch pattern for 60 [68, 72, 84, 92] rows. Fasten off.






Center Panel (make 2)
With CC, ch 26 [26, 26, 32, 32].
Row 1(WS): Ch 1, sc in first ch, ch 1, sk next ch, *sc in next ch, ch 3, sk next ch, sc in next ch**, ch 3, sk 3 chs, repeat from * to last 2 chs, ending last repeat at **, ch 1, sk next ch, sc in last ch, turn – 10 [10, 10, 12, 12] sts.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first st, *(dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-3 sp**, working over next ch-3 sp, sc in middle ch of 3 skipped chs of foundation row, repeat from * to last st, ending last repeat at **, sc in last st, turn – 21[21, 21, 26, 26] sts.
Row 3: Ch 4 (counts as dc, ch 1), sk first 2 sts, *sc in next ch sp, ch 3, sk 2 sts, sc in next ch sp**, ch 3, sk 3 sts, repeat from * to last 2 sts, ending last repeat at **, ch 1, sk next st, dc in last st, turn – 10 [10, 10, 12, 12] sts.
Row 4: Ch 3, (dc, ch 1, dc) in first st, *working over next ch-3 sp, sc in middle ch sp of fan underneath**, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-3 sp, repeat from * to last ch sp, ending last repeat at **, sk last ch sp, (dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in last st, turn – 22 [22, 22, 27, 27] sts.
Row 5: Ch 1, sc in first st, ch 1, sk next st, *sc in next ch sp, ch 3, sk 3 sts, sc in next ch sp**, ch 3, sk 2 sts, repeat from * to last 2 sts, ending last repeat at **, ch 1, sk next st, sc in last st, turn – 10 [10, 10, 12, 12] sts.
Row 6: Ch 1, sc in first st, *(dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-3 sp**, working over next ch-3 sp, sc in middle ch sp of fan underneath, repeat from * to last st, ending last repeat at **, sc in last st, turn – 21[21, 21, 26, 26] sts.

Repeat Rows 3-6 for pattern. Work in pattern for a total of 26 [30, 32, 40, 44] rows. Fasten off.

Assembly
Lay all pieces with RS up. Two side panels should be parallel and spread wide enough to just overlap edges of two center panels. See Assembly Diagram, below. With MC and tapestry needle sew through edges of side and center panels with a running st or back st to secure together.



Edging
Row 1: With RS facing, using MC, dc evenly along one short edge, any odd number of dc sts that lays nicely will work, turn.
Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), hdc in first st, *Bpdc in next st, hdc in next st, repeat from * across, turn.
Row 3: Ch 2, hdc in first st *Fpdc in next st, hdc in next st, repeat from * across, turn.
Row 4: Repeat Row 2.

Repeat Rows 1-4 for second short edge.

Then repeat for each long edge, including along the sides of the ribbed edging you’ve already made. I found that it worked well for me to have 5 dc for every 4 row ends.


Free crochet pattern for a girls poncho by April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio

Collar
Sizes 2 and 4 only
Rnd 1: With RS facing, using MC, join with sc to center ch sp of 3rd fan of back center panel, sc in next st, sc in next ch sp, ch 2, sk 3 sts, (sc in next ch sp, sc in next st)2 times, sc in next ch sp, ch 1, sc evenly across side of neckline, ch 1, *(sc in next ch sp, sc in next st)2 times, sc in next ch sp**, ch 2, sk 3 sts, repeat from * across front center panel to last 2 sts, ch 1, sc evenly across side of neckline, ch 1, repeat from first * to second * across back center panel until you get back to where you started, join to first st with sl st, turn – approx. 60 sts.

Sizes 6, 8, and 10 only
Rnd 1: With RS facing, using MC, join with sc to center ch sp of 2nd [3rd, 3rd] complete fan of back center panel, sc in next st, sc in next ch sp, ch 2, sk 3 sts, (sc in next ch sp, sc in next st)2 times, sc in next ch sp, ch 2, sk 3 sts, sc in next ch sp, sc in next st, sc evenly across side of neckline, sk first st of front center panel (which should be underneath side panel anyhow), sc in next st, sc in next ch sp, *ch 2, sk 3 sts**, (sc in next ch sp, sc in next st)2 times, sc in next ch sp, repeat from * across front center panel, ending last repeat at **, sc in next ch sp, sc in next st, sc evenly across side of neckline, sk first st of back center panel, sc in next st, sc in next ch sp, repeat from first * to second * across back center panel until you get back to where you started, join to first st with sl st, turn – approx. 58 sts.

All sizes
Rnd 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), dc evenly around neckline, aiming for 93 or an odd number close to that (if the intended wearer has an especially large head, you could make it just a little larger), join to first st with sl st, turn.
Rnd 3: Ch 2, Fpdc in first st, *Bpdc in next st, Fpdc in next st, repeat from * around, join to first st with sl st, turn.
Rnd 4: Ch 2, Bpdc in first st, *Fpdc in next st, Bpdc in next st, repeat from * around, join to first st with sl st, turn.
Rnds 5-7: Alternate repeating Rnds 3-4, ending with a Rnd 3 repeat. Fasten off.

Finishing

Place poncho RS out, folded in half as it will be worn. One set of buttons will go on the left side, and one set on the right side. Buttons are attached through both thicknesses of the poncho, one on the front, and one on the back. Place buttons a little less than halfway up from the bottom of the poncho, centered on the ribbed edging. With tapestry needle and MC, sew on buttons. Weave in all ends. 



Free crochet pattern for a girls poncho by April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio


I hope you'll share photos of your finished projects with me! You can post your project on Ravelry, share your photos with me on Facebook, or share them on Instagram and tag me! It makes my day when someone has used and enjoyed my pattern! If, by chance, you find a mistake, since I am human, please let me know, and I will fix it!


Looking for other crochet patterns for girls? Look here:







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Happy stitching!
April


3.28.2018

New Crochet Pattern, a Chunky Crochet Cowl!

Chunky crochet cowl pattern by April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio

New crochet pattern!



I have a new crochet pattern for you! I'm calling this "Semita Cowl." It is made in super bulky yarn, Malabrigo Rasta, and a Q [16 mm] crochet hook, those are the really big, usually plastic ones. You'll need two skeins, but you won't use quite all of the second one.

Find this crochet pattern on Ravelry, Etsy, Craftsy, and LoveCrochet!


http://eepurl.com/b-Fl5T



It's double sided!


This cowl is made using post stitches. If you've never used post stitches, you might not know how. See my tutorial by clicking here. The post stitches produce an extra thick fabric! Between the super bulky yarn and the post stitches, this is a thick cowl! Another interesting thing that post stitches do is produce texture. You can see the texture of one side in the picture above. That's the same side as this picture:

Chunky crochet cowl pattern by April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio

Here is the other side:

Chunky crochet cowl pattern by April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio


Here is yours truly wearing it with the second side out:

Chunky crochet cowl pattern by April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio

The finished cowl is about 27 inches [68 cm] around and 7 1/2 inches [19 cm] wide. It's very warm. I finished this cowl while on a road trip with the Mr. We stopped for dinner at a pizza place in Ardmore, OK (Ten Star Pizza Kitchen, yum!). I'm always cold in restaurants. I went back out to the car to grab this cowl and was almost instantly warmer after putting it on. It kept me pleasantly warm while we finished dinner, even though I was wearing short sleeves. Keep it handy!






Looking for other neckwear patterns? Look here:







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Happy Stitching!
April






3.03.2018

How to Make Fringe for a Crochet or Knitting Project


how to make fringe for a crochet or knitting project, tutorial by April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio

Why would I want to make fringe?


Howdy all! Recently I released a new knitting pattern, Minco Shawl, that has fringe all along the edge. The pictures in this tutorial are from that project, using Lion Brand Yarns Mandala, graciously provided by Lion Brand Yarns. That required cutting a LOT of fringe! Fortunately, I came up with an easy way to cut all those fringe pieces just the perfect length very quickly. 


http://eepurl.com/b-Fl5T


Now, my shawl pattern is far from the only knitting or crochet pattern that uses fringe, so you'll be able to use this info many times! If you are a crocheter, rather than a knitter, you would more likely be interested in my Variety Show Scarf crochet pattern, which uses fringe, and is also a free pattern! 

How to Easily Make Fringe


Begin by cutting a piece of cardboard in a square the same length as your fringe pieces need to be. Then, wrap your yarn around the piece of cardboard half as many times as you need fringe pieces. Each complete wrap makes 2 pieces of fringe. Don't stretch your yarn as you wrap. You don't want it loosey goosey, but if you pull tight and stretch your yarn, your fringe pieces will actually be shorter than intended because the yarn won't stay stretched over the cardboard once you cut them.

how to make fringe for a crochet or knitting project, tutorial by April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio

Next, lay your wrapped cardboard on a flat surface and lay your non-cutting hand on top of it to hold the yarn in place. Use some large, sharp scissors to cut the folds along each side of your cardboard square. Once you finish cutting, you'll have all the fringe pieces cut to the perfect length. Voila!

how to make fringe for a crochet or knitting project, tutorial by April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio




Once all your pieces are cut, you'll hold 2 or more pieces together with ends even. Your pattern should tell you how many to hold together. Next, fold the pieces in half. Insert a crochet hook up through your fabric from wrong side to right side. Grab the fold with the crochet hook, and pull it part way through the fabric. Pull the ends of the fringe pieces through the loop this creates and pull snug. You'll repeat this process all along the edge of your project.

how to make fringe for a crochet or knitting project, tutorial by April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio


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I hope I'll see you around! Happy stitching!

April


2.20.2018

Minco Shawl: An Easy Knit Shawl Pattern

Easy, free knit shawl pattern by April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio

Free and Easy Knit Shawl Pattern

Hi friends! I have another free pattern for you! This one is a knit shawl called "Minco Shawl." This shawl is nice and big! Plenty of coverage here. You can easily wrap it around your neck, and let the ends hang over your shoulders. No shawl pin needed.




The pattern begins along the top edge. You'll work decreases on every right side row, and on every third wrong side row. After you finish the seed stitch shawl, you'll add fringe up both sides, incorporating your beginning and ending ends into your fringe, so you won't have to weave them in!

The yarn that I've used, Lion Brand Yarns Mandala, was graciously provided by Lion Brand Yarns. It is 100% Acrylic, and is nice to wear. I've been wearing it all day and am very pleased at how comfortable it is on my neck. It does all this lovely color-changing on it's own, so you won't need to change colors as you work. Easy. 

I came up with an easy way to cut all these fringe pieces just the right length. I'll share a tutorial in the next day or two for that, so that I can show you in pictures how to do it, though I describe it with words in the pattern below.

And can we all just take a minute and appreciate the cool photography here? I love that I was not wearing much color, and neither were our woods, so the shawl really stands out in this background! Anyhow, continue below for the free pattern!

Easy, free knit shawl pattern by April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio



Difficulty Level Easy

Finished Measurements About 64 ¾” (164.5 cm) wide; about 27 ¾” (70.5 cm) tall. Measurements do not include fringe.

Yarn Lion BrandYarns Mandala [100% Acrylic; 590 yds (540 m); 5.3 oz (150 g); CYCA weight: 3/light]: 2 skeins #208 Valkyrie.

Knitting Needles Size 5 circular needles at least 32” (81.5 cm) long, or size needed to obtain gauge.

Notions
Piece of cardboard about 7” square
Size F crochet hook

Gauge 24 sts x 42 rows = about 4 ½” (11.5 cm) in seed stitch.

Notes The shawl begins along the top edge. It is worked in seed stitch with decreases along both sides in rows 1, 3, 5, and 6 of the repeat. After binding off at the point, fringe is added along both sides, using the crochet hook. No need to weave in your beginning and ending ends, just tie them into the fringe!

http://eepurl.com/b-Fl5T


Shawl
Co 346 sts
Row 1(RS): K 1st st, ssk, *P1, K1, repeat from * to last 3 sts, k2tog, K last st.
Row 2: P2, K1, P1, repeat from * to last 2 sts, P2.
Row 3: K 1st st, ssk, *K1, P1, repeat from * to last 3 sts, k2tog, K last st.
Row 4: P2, *P1, K1, repeat from * to last 2 sts, P2.
Row 5: Repeat Row 1.
Row 6: P 1st st, p2tog, *P1, K1, repeat from * to last 3 sts, ssp, P last st.

(Repeat Rows 1-6) 41 times.
Repeat Rows 1-5 again.

Row 258: P2tog, ssp.
Row 259: Slip 1st st, P1, psso. Bind off last st.

Easy, free knit shawl pattern by April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio

Finishing


To make fringe, cut a piece of cardboard about 7” (18 cm) square. Without stretching tightly, wrap yarn around cardboard 130 times. Cut yarn. Place wrapped cardboard on a flat service and lay your non-cutting hand on top of it, pressing down a little. Use sharp scissors to cut along both cardboard edges, so that strands on top of cardboard are completely separated from strands on bottom. This should make 260 strands of yarn, all about 7” (18 cm) long. Lay shawl out with RS facing up. Lay two strands of fringe together with edges even. Insert crochet hook up through WS of shawl at bottom point. Fold two fringe pieces in half, pull fold part way through shawl edge with crochet hook. Pull fringe ends through this loop and pull snug. See my photo tutorial on this process here. Repeat this process up both edges, placing fringe through every other row end. At bottom point and at top edge, pull beg and ending ends through loop of fringe along with fringe ends to secure, then trim even with fringe. All done!

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Happy stitching!
April



2.17.2018

A Beginning Crochet Pattern - Beginner Bracelet Pattern and Tutorial

Free crochet pattern for beginners, Beginning crochet pattern with tutorial by April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio

A crochet pattern for beginners

Hi friends! Today's post is actually not about something new, but about a change. Years ago I designed this very simple cuff bracelet as a way to teach my students how to make the most basic crochet stitches, while still giving them the opportunity to make something usable and wearable. I think that people are more motivated to crochet, when they feel that they can make something they like right of the bat. I also hope that as they make this project, along with my video tutorial, they will learn how to read a pattern.




This beginning crochet pattern is now available in print - for FREE!

At first, I only gave the printed pattern to those who had paid to take my class. I also put together a tutorial video so that my students could get help remembering what to do even after the class was over. This was, if I remember right, the first video ever posted to my YouTube channel. The video has always been public, so anyone could watch it and get the pattern that way, just not in writing.

Today I am happy to say that I am adding the free written pattern to my blog, and will have the tutorial video embedded here in this post. 

What if I'm not a beginner?

Many of my loyal readers have been crocheting for years, so you will probably think that this post does nothing for you. However, this post will be a great one to share with friends or family members that would like to learn how to crochet, so please share! 

Here's that free beginning crochet pattern

Beginner's Bracelet

By April Garwood of Banana Moon Studio

Difficulty Level: Beginner

Finished Measurements: Child size: about 1 1/2" x 6 1/2" [Adult size: 1 1/2" x 8 1/4"].

Yarn: CYCA weight 4/Medium/Worsted.

Crochet hook: K/10.5 (6.5 mm), or size needed to obtain gauge.

Notions: 1 button about 3/4" in diameter, tapestry needle.

Guage: 12 sts = about 4"; 3 rows of bracelet pattern = about 1 1/2".

Abbreviations used in this pattern:
ch      chain
sc      single crochet
rem   remaining
st       stitch
hdc    half-double crochet
dc      double crochet
sp      space

Bracelet
Ch 21 [26]
Row 1: Skip first ch, sc in each rem ch, turn – 20 [25] sc.
Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a st now and throughout), hdc in first 2 sc, ch 1, skip next sc, hdc in each rem sc, turn – 19 [24] hdc.
Row 3: Ch 2, dc in each hdc to ch sp, dc in ch sp, dc in last 2 hdc, turn – 20 [25] dc. Fasten off.

Finishing
Sew button on end of bracelet, opposite buttonhole. Weave in ends.


Video Tutorial for this Beginner's Bracelet




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Happy stitching!
April