3.09.2017

NatCroMo 2017


Happy National Crochet Month friends! Today I am here to celebrate the art of crochet and to make my contribution to the Crochetville 2017 NatCroMo blog tour. 

This post contains affiliate links. It helps my bottom line when you click on one and load up your cart, so TIA!

There are posts every day this month from designers, yarn stores, and yarn and other crochet-related companies. There are daily giveaways as well! You can keep up with the daily posts on Crochetville's blog and Facebook Page

So, the theme of this year's blog tour is "Glamping" (in case you aren't in the know, that's glamorous camping). Well, when I camp, it's not glamorous. In fact, I went camping this past weekend, and I can tell you, there wasn't a thing about me, or our campsite that was glamorous. Since I am not experienced in this field, I had to consult Pinterest. 

Thankfully, it won't take you more than a few minutes after typing "glamping" in the search box on Pitnerest to discover the secret to successful glamping... 

Throw Pillows, perfectly chosen to match your stunning campsite decor. You'll need them on the luxe bed in your massive tent, and on the cute upholstered chairs around your campfire. Never mind the fact that they'll smell like campfire and be full of burrs after day 1. Suck it up, buttercup. If you want to be a glamper, you need throw pillows.


Good news is, I've got you covered with a new, original throw pillow pattern in honor of the occasion. Without further ado, allow me to introduce:

Pond Creek Pillow
By April Garwood

Difficutly Level: Easy+

Finished Size: 14 inches or 35.5 cm diameter.

Yarn: Valley Yarns Valley Superwash dk (100% Extrafine Merino; 137 yds/125.5 m/1.75 oz/50 g; weight category 3/light): #01 Natural, 1 ball; #10 Soft Yellow, 3 balls; #23 Boy Blue, 1 ball.

Hook: G/6/4 mm, or size needed to obtain gauge.

Notions: Yarn needle, 14 inch or 35.5 cm diameter pillow form.

Gauge: First 5 rounds of pillow front = about 4 ½” or 11.5 cm across.

Special Stitches
Picot (picot): Ch 3, insert hook under front loop, and left vertical bar of last st, yo, pull through all loops.
Quadruple Treble (quadtr): Yo 5 times, insert hook in designated st and pull up a loop, *yo, pull through 2 loops, repeat from * until only 1 loop remains on hook.
Extended Double Crochet (edc): Yo, insert hook in designated st and pull up a loop, yo, pull through 1 loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops)2 times.
Triple Treble (trtr): Yo 4 times, insert hook in designated st and pull up a loop, *yo, pull through 2 loops, repeat from * until only 1 loop remains on hook.

Notes:
Do not turn between rounds.

When working qdtr or trtr stitches, wrap yarnovers tightly, and push yarnovers towards end of hook as you work them off, so that the last loop doesn’t wind up being overly loose.

The front and back of the pillow cover are crocheted separately. Then they are stitched together around the edges while placing a pillow form inside.

Pillow Front
With Natural, make an adjustable ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 2, 12 dc in ring, join to first st with sl st – 12 sts.
Rnd 2: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), Fpdc in first st, (hdc, Fpdc) in each rem st, join to first st with sl st – 24 sts. 
Rnd 3: Ch 2, (hdc, Fpdc in 2nd st), *hdc in next st, (hdc, Fpdc) in next st, repeat from * around, join to first st with sl st – 36 sts. Fasten off. 
Rnd 4: With Soft Yellow (join with sc, hdc, sc) in first post st, *ch 1, skip 2 sts**, (sc, hdc, sc) in next post st, repeat from * around, ending last rep at **, join to first st with sl st – 36 sts. 
Rnd 5: Sl st in next 2 sts, (sl st, ch 5, tr, ch 2, dc) in next ch sp, skip 3 sts, *(dc, ch 2, tr, ch 2, dc) in next ch sp, skip 3 sts, repeat from * around, join to 3rd ch of ch-5 with sl st – 36 sts.
Rnd 6: Ch 1, *3 sc in next ch sp, (sc, picot) in next st (see Special Stitches), 3 sc in next ch sp, skip 2 sts, repeat from * around, join to first st with sl st – 84 sts. Fasten off. 
Rnd 7: Working in back loops only, with Boy Blue, join with sc in second st, sc in next st, *ch 1, skip next st and picot, place ch behind picot, sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts**, sc in next 2 sts, repeat from * around, ending last rep at **, join to first st with sl st – 60 sts. Fasten off. 
Rnd 8: With Soft Yellow, join with edc to 2nd st, *dc in next st, 3 dc in ch sp, dc in next st, edc in next st, skip next st**, edc in next st, repeat from * around, ending last rep at **, join to first st with sl st – 84 sts. Fasten off. Note that the front loops of each edc will be used in Rnd 12 to stitch into. Make a mental note or mark them with waste yarn or locking st markers for easy ID later on.
Rnd 9: With Boy Blue, and working in back loops only, join with sc in first st, sc in next 6 sts, ch 2, *sc in next 7 sts, ch 2, repeat from * around, join to first st with sl st – 84 sts. 
Rnd 10: Sl st in next 2 sts, (sl st, ch 2, 3 dc) in next st (ch 2 does not count as a st), ch 1, *skip 3 sts, (2 dc, tr, ch 1, tr, 2 dc) in next ch sp, ch 1, skip 3 sts**, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, repeat from * around, ending last rep at **, join to first st with sl st – 108 sts. Fasten off. 
Rnd 11: With Natural (Join with sc, 2 sc) in 2nd st, *ch 4, skip 4 sts, sc in next ch sp, ch 4, skip 4 sts**, 3 sc in next st, repeat from * around, ending last rep at **, join to first st with sl st – 48 sts. Fasten off. 
Rnd 12: With yellow (join with sc, sc, 2 hdc, dc) in first ch sp, *quadtr in front loop of next 2 edc from Rnd 8, skip next st, (dc, 2 hdc, 2 sc) in next ch sp, ch 2, skip 3 sts**, (2 sc, 2 hdc, dc) in next ch sp, repeat from * around, ending last rep at **, join to first st with sl st – 144 sts. Fasten off.
Rnd 13: With Boy Blue, (Join with sc, sc, picot, sc) in first ch sp, *working in back loops only, sc in each st to next ch sp**, (2 sc, picot, sc) in next ch sp, repeat from * around, ending last rep at **, join to first st with sl st – 180 sts. Fasten off.
Rnd 14: With Natural, join with sc in first picot, *ch 3, skip 6 sts, 4 tr in next st, ch 1, 4 tr in next st, ch 3, skip 7 sts**, sc in next picot, repeat from * around, ending last rep at **, join to first st with sl st – 108 sts. Fasten off.
Rnd 15: Join Soft Yellow with sc in first st, *2 sc in next ch sp, trtr in front loop of next quadtr from Rnd 12, skip next st, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next ch sp, sc in next 3 sts, trtr in front loop of next quadtr from Rnd 12, skip next st, 2 sc in next ch sp**, sc in next st, repeat from * around, ending last rep at **, join to first st with sl st – 180 sts.
Rnd 16: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), working in back loops only, edc in first 2 sts, *dc in next 5 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 5 sts**, edc in next 3 sts, repeat from * around, ending last rep at **, edc in last st, 
join to first st with sl st.
Rnds 17-18: Ch 2, does not count as a st, dc in each st around, join to first st with sl st – 180 sts.

Weave in ends.



Pillow Back
Note: You can change colors as you like, or work the whole back piece in one solid color. When you want to change colors, you begin with the join in the rnd prior to the change. Insert hook into the first st, yo with the new color, pull through st and loop on hook with this new color, continue the next rnd in this new color. I began in Natural, changed to Boy Blue in Rnd 7, and changed to Soft Yellow in Rnd 9.
With Natural, make an adjustable ring.
Rnds 1-3: Repeat Rnds 1-3 of Pillow Front.
Rnds 4-8: Ch 2, *hdc in each st to next post st, (hdc, Fpdc) in next post st, repeat from * around, join to first st with sl st.
Rnd 9: Ch 2, *hdc in each st to next post st, Fpdc in next post st, repeat from * around, join to first st with sl st.
Rnd 10: Repeat Rnd 4.
Rnds 11-22: Alternate repeating Rnds 9 and 4 – 180 sts.

Weave in ends.

Finishing
Place Pillow Front and Pillow Back with WS together. When you have finished joining the pieces a little past halfway around, insert the pillow form and continue stitching. With front piece facing you, and working through both thicknesses, join yarn with sc in any set of sts, *sc in next 14 sets of sts, 2 sc in next set of sts, repeat from * around, join to first st with sl st – 192 sts. Weave in ends.

Tada! All finished! 


Please keep in touch! You can subscribe to my monthly newsletter here: Subscribe. You can visit me on Facebook or Twitter, or share pics of your finished pillows on Ravelry!

Happy glamping and stitching friends! I hope you enjoy the rest of the tour!
April


3.02.2017

Vinita Mitts Jr


If you have visited my blog before, you may have seen my original Vinita Mitts pattern. I mentioned there how much Baby wanted a pair of her own. Well, like any mom, I spoil my youngest, so I had to make her a pair.



You, dear readers, get to benefit from her request. This pattern makes the same fingerless mitts in smaller sizes for your littles. This pattern includes a carry-along thread made by Kreinik that is sparkly, and of course, big bows made with ribbon. Many thanks to Kreink for providing the thread. This pattern could easily work without the sparkle or the bows if you have a recipient that would not care for those.


Vinita Mitts Jr
Design by April Garwood

Available Sizes: 4 ½ [5 ¼, 5 ¾]” or 10 [13.5, 14.5] cm arm circumference a few inches above the wrist.

Yarn:
- Valley Yarns Valley Superwash dk (100% Extrafine Merino; 137 yds/125.5 m/1.75 oz/50 g; weight category 3/light): #16 Ice Blue, 1 ball.
- Kreinik Ombre Carry-Along Yarn (330 yd/302 m; weight category 1/fine): #1300 Misty Violet, 1 cone.

Crochet hook: H/8/5.00 mm, or size needed to obtain gauge.

Notions: About 42” or 106.5 cm of 1” or 2.5 cm wide gross-grain ribbon in complementary color, yarn needle.

Gauge: 7 patt repeats and 9 rnds = about 4” or 10 cm

Notes:
1. Ch 3 at beg of rnd counts as dc.
2. Ch 6 at beg of rnd 11 does not count as a st. This large ch sp forms the thumbhole.

Mitt (Make 2)
Ch 16 [18, 20], join to first ch with sl st.
Rnd 1: Ch 3, dc in first ch, *skip next ch, 2 dc in next ch, repeat from * around, skip last ch, join to tch with sl st – 16 [18, 20] sts.
Rnd 2: (Sl st, ch 3, dc) in sp between tch and first st, *skip next st, 2 dc in between next 2 sts, repeat from * around, skip last st, join to tch with sl st.
Rnds 3-7: Repeat Rnd 2.
Rnd 8:  (Sl st, ch 3, 2 dc) in sp between tch and first st, *skip next st, 2 dc in between next 2 sts, repeat from * around, skip last st, join to tch with sl st – 17 [19, 21] sts.
Rnd 9: (Sl st, ch 3, dc) in sp between tch and first st, 2 dc in sp between 1st and 2nd sts, *skip next st, 2 dc in between next 2 sts, repeat from * around, skip last st, join to tch with sl st – 18 [20, 22] sts.
Rnd 10: Repeat Rnd 2.
Rnd 11: Ch 6, skip first 2 sts, dc in between next 2 sts, *skip next st, 2 dc in between next 2 sts, repeat form * around, skip last st, join to 3rd ch of tch with sl st – 16 [18, 20] sts.
Rnd 12: (Sl st, ch 1, sc) in first ch sp, *2 dc in between next 2 sts, skip next st, repeat from * around, join to first st with sl st – 17 [19, 21] sts.
Rnd 13: Sl st in next st, (Sl st, ch 3, dc) in sp between this and next st, *skip next st, 2 dc in between next 2 sts, repeat from * around, skip last st, join to top of ch-3 with sl st.
Rnd 14: Repeat Rnd 2. Fasten off.

Finishing:
Weave in ends.



I'm so happy to share this pattern with you! Please add your photos to Ravelry or share them on my Facebook page. I share my latest patterns, posts, and deals in my monthly newsletter. Sign up by clicking here.

Happy stitching!
April



2.23.2017

Tulip Gauntlets

(C) Interweave/F+W Media

Hi friends! Today I'm pleased to tell you about "Tulip Gauntlets," a recent crochet design I did for Love of Crochet magazine.

This post contain affiliate links. It helps my bottom line when you click on one and load up your cart, so TIA.

These are long fingerless gloves made in 5 shades of Patons Classic Wool DK Superwash. The stitch pattern is one that I came up with years ago when I did a design for Crochet Today! magazine called "Ring Around the Rosy Cozy," which were garden pot cozies. You can see this stitch pattern on the bottom sections of the cozies.

(C)Crochet Today! magazine

I called this "tulip stitch" because the little clusters look like tulips. This is an overlay technique. You only use one color in each round of the stitch pattern, but your rows overlap to create the look of having two colors in each round.

Interweave

My original gauntlets were stitched in Valley Yarns Valley Superwash dk in 4 shades of blue. I sent these originals into Interweave with my submission so they could try them on and love them. I look forward to getting them back because I like to keep them in the bottom of my purse for times that I'm chilly. I first designed these to be included in a book submission. However, that didn't pan out. I never submitted the book proposal. I had originally named the pattern Guadalupe Gloves, after a river in Texas. My family traditionally vacationed at a small cabin resort along the Guadalupe River around Thanksgiving every year. I have very fond memories of canoeing the river with my sisters and cousins.


The gauntlets pattern is written in 3 sizes to fit small, medium, and large adult hands. You'll need 1 skein each of the 5 shades you plan to use.

As always, I look forward to seeing your finished projects! Add them to Ravelry or share them on my Facebook page. I'll see them either place.

Please sign up for my monthly newsletter! I share my latest news and a discount code for the month's featured pattern!

Happy Stitching!
April

Craftsy

12.29.2016

Hollis Headband



Hi friends! Today I have another free pattern to share with you! Let's call it a New Year's gift and pretend that I had no intention of having this ready for Christmas (wink). This is Hollis Headband, a simple ribbed headband in crochet. Color-changing worsted weight yarn, and the right stitch pattern make this both warm and so trendy!

This is pretty much a one-size-fits-most accessory. The headband is about 16 1/2 x 3 1/2 in. or 42 x 9 cm. But it stretches to fit even my big 'ol 22 in. melon. However, I have included suggestions in the notes to make a different size.



As with all my patterns, please don't make copies to share with other stitchers, just direct them to my blog or pattern store so they can get their own. Thank you!

Hollis Headband
Design by April Garwood

Difficulty Level: Easy

Finished Measurements: About 16 ½ x 3 ½ in. or 42 x 9 cm. This stretches to fit most adult head sizes.

Yarn: Red Heart Boutique Treasure #1901 Mosaic (3.5 oz/100 g, 151 yd/138 m, 70% Acrylic/30% Wool, CYCA weight category 4/medium): 1 skein.

Crochet Hook: K – 10 ½ (6.5 mm), or size needed to obtain gauge.

Notions: yarn needle.

Gauge: 12 sts x 9 rnds = about 3 ½ in. or 9 cm

Interweave

Abbreviations:
Bpdc     back post double crochet
Ch        chain
Dc        double crochet
Fpdc     front post double crochet
Sl st      slip stitch
St         stitch

Notes:
            -  Your headband will look best if you work Rnd 1 sts into the bottom ridge of the chains, rather than the usual top loops.
         -  Do not turn between rnds.
         -  Need it smaller? Start with a smaller (odd) number of chains. Need it larger? Start with a larger (odd) number of chains. Need it wider? Work another rnd or two. Need it narrower? Work a rnd or two fewer.

Headband:
Ch 55, without twisting chain, join to first ch with sl st to join.

Rnd 1: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), dc in each ch, join to first st with sl st – 55 sts.
Rnds 2-9: Ch 2, Fpdc in first st, *Bpdc in next st, Fpdc in next st, repeat from * around, join to first st with sl st.

Fasten off after Rnd 9. Weave in all ends. Done!


Enjoy!

Want to hang out more? Visit me on Facebook or sign up for my monthly newsletter for the latest news and deals!

April Garwood


12.15.2016

Primary Sweater Dress


This lovely pattern is my "Primary Sweater Dress". I <3 this dress! We are members of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, and this dress is named for the children's classes there, called "Primary". My daughter, Lady Hops-a-lot, loves wearing this dress to church, as it is soft, stretchy, comfy, and cozy.

This post contains affiliate links. It helps my bottom line when you click on one and load up your cart, so thanks in advance.


The dress is made in 6 colors of Valley Yarns Valley Superwash dk, a favorite yarn of mine! I used the same yarn for my Sweet Little Mittens, Sweet Little Hat, and Edmond Sweater. I've also submitted dozens of designs to magazines in this yarn, however, the publishers have always changed it to something else. This yarn is so soft with a nice, smooth, smooshy texture, and it is machine washable. Love! If you want to use fewer, or more colors, be my guest. Just divide the total number of rows by the number of colors you are using to see how many rows to do in each color.

One of the really fun parts of this dress for me, was choosing the colors! I have this yarn in almost every color, as it is kind of my go-to superwash for designing. Color selection used to be really hard for me, but I've done a few things that have helped me figure it out. First, I bought, downloaded, and watched this online color class by Laura Bryant of Prism Yarn:


This helped me a lot! Also, I've followed the blog Attic24 and seen how the writer, Lucy, uses color in her projects. I am still a novice comparatively, but I did find that, in addition to what Laura teaches in her class, you can use colors that are a darker shade of one of the others in your palette, and have them look harmonious.

So, when you go to pick our your colors, find 5 or so that are all of a similar "weight" (degree of light to dark), and then you can choose one more color that is a darker shade of one of the first 5. I chose 5 of the lightest colors of Valley Yarns, Valley Superwash dk, and then the last color is similar to the light blue, but a darker version of it. You can start with 5 colors in the mid range, or 5 in the dark range, and then choose one that is lighter or darker, but a similar color to one of these.

Interweave

I arranged my colors from lightest at the bottom, to darkest at the top, If you find it difficult to tell whether one is darker or lighter than the others, line them all up next to each other, take a photo (your smart phone will work brilliantly for this), and then change the photo to a black and white picture. It will be more obvious this way because you take out the complication of color.


This pattern is really quite easy. The dress begins at the bottom with a few rounds of ribbing, and then continues up to the armpits with no shaping. It doesn't get much easier folks. There is a little more work to make the raglan seams in the yoke, but this is not really very difficult either. You can do this!

This pattern is written in sizes 2, 4, 6, 8, and 10! It costs $5.00 and you can get it on Ravelry and Craftsy. Want to hang out more? Visit my Facebook page or sign up for my monthly newsletter!

Happy stitching!

April

Interweave Store

12.06.2016

Basically Beanie



Hi everyone! I was recently asked to teach women from church to crochet baby hats to donate to Infant Crisis Services here in Oklahoma City. So, I wrote a pattern. It maybe isn't the most simple pattern out there, but I made it to be very flexible. This explains how to make a very basic beanie in double crochet in any yarn you want to use, and make it whatever size you want. Keep in mind, if you are going to donate it, that you should use a machine washable yarn.

If you are looking for other crochet hat patterns, try one of these:



Basically Beanie
Design by April Garwood

Difficulty Level: Beginner

Yarn: Any yarn you like

Hook: Sized to match your yarn, suggestions as follows…
Yarn weight             Hook size
0/Lace                      Steel hook 6 to 8, or B/1
1/Super Fine            B/1 to E/4
2/Fine                       E/4 to 7
3/Light                     7 to I/9
4/Medium                I/9 to K/10 ½
5/Bulky                    K/10 ½ to M/13
6/Super Bulky         M/13 to Q

Notions: Yarn needle

Gauge: Varies

Abbreviations:
Ch        chain
Sl st      slip stitch
St         Stitch
Dc        double crochet


Notes:
-     -   If the above stitches are unfamiliar to you, I suggest a Google or YouTube search. There are many tutorials on the internet that will lead you through them step by step.
-      -  The hat begins at the center top by gradually increasing to make a flat circle of the desired circumference. Each round thereafter is worked with no increasing until the desired length has been reached.


Top of hat:
Ch 4, sl st in first ch to form a ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 2 (does not count as a st, now and throughout), dc in ring 12 times, join to first st with sl st – 12 sts.
Rnd 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in each st around, join to first st with sl st – 24 sts.
Rnd 3: Ch 2, *dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc (increase made), repeat from * around, join to first st with sl st – 36 sts.
Rnd 4: Ch 2, *dc in each dc to next increase, dc in first st of increase, 2 dc in 2nd st of increase, repeat from * around, join to first st with sl st – 48 sts.

Repeat Rnd 4 until your circle reaches a circumference 0” to 2” less than the head circumference of the wearer. Remember circumference = 3.14 x diameter.


Sides of hat:
Rnd 1: Ch 2, dc in each st around, join to first st with sl st.

Repeat Rnd 1 until hat has reached desired length (see Notes below). Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Notes about sizing:
-     -   A hat made from a thicker yarn will need to measure closer to the actual head circumference than a hat made with a thinner yarn.
-    -    I recommend making this a few inches longer than needed to cover the ears. The bottom can be folded up when worn, or the hat can be worn “slouchy” if desired. This will also prevent having a too-short hat.
-     -   Below I have some “standard” and “suggested” measurements. Since people come in all shapes and sizes, the person wearing your hat may not fit these measurements. Thankfully, crochet fabric is very stretchy and forgiving. If you are crocheting for someone that you can’t measure, these will give you some estimated measurements to shoot for. If you can measure the person to wear the hat, go by their measurements.


“Standard” head circumferences (remember, your hat should be a little smaller around than this):

Preemie            12” or smaller
Baby                 14”
Toddler             16”
Child                 18”
Woman             21”
Man                  23”

Suggested lengths from crown to bottom edge (this includes the extra 1 ½” I recommend):

Preemie            6” or smaller
Baby                 7 ½”
Toddler             8 ½”
Child                 9 ½”
Woman             10 ½”
Man                  10 ½”

To share this pattern with others, please direct them to my blog rather than copying this pattern for them. Thank you! When you finish your hats, please share your photos on Ravelry, or on my Facebook page! I love hearing from you.


Happy stitching!
April 




12.01.2016

Canton Cardigan


My Canton Cardigan is one of my newer crochet patterns. It has a crossover front and long sleeves. It is made with side-to-side construction. The greatest feature of this cardigan, however, is the textured trim! You can see it so well in this top photo. The trim is at the edge of both front pieces, and at the end of each sleeve. This textured trim is made using post stitches. You can learn about post stitch in my "Post Stitch Post". You don't have to sew in the sleeves, but you will have to seam the sides and underarms.

(This post contains affiliate links. It helps my bottom line when you click on one and load up your cart, so thanks in advance).


The yarn for this pattern is King Cole Baby Comfort dk in #772 Silver and #1731 Mulberry. It takes 4-6 skeins of the Silver and 1 skein of the Mulberry. You'll also need a size H/8/5mm and a couple of buttons, one big and one small.




This makes a great lightweight cardigan. The yarn is a very soft blend of acrylic and nylon, so it isn't going to over hear you, and it will be easy to take care of. The pattern is written in 5 sizes from 35.75 in - 51.75 in (or 102 cm - 131.5 cm) bust circumference. You can buy the pattern for $6.00 on Ravelry, Etsy, and Craftsy.

Want to hang out more? Sign up for my monthly newsletter or visit me on Facebook! 

Happy stitching!
April